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Re: Disassembling Oatey Washing Machine Valve

Originally posted by WatersurgeonView Post

Hammerlane,

Thanks for the two forum posts. Although I don't really get involved with these valves I have seen them leaking in the past.
The picture break down was a great plus and thanks for that. I have a simple philosophy in life.

I figured others have a problem with leaks at the handle and without photos it would be a pain in the arse to explain.

But just a note.
On most of the newer single lever shutoffs, the female hose threads are cast into the valve body so the threaded portion does not unscrew(red portion in photo) but as you can see (circled in blue) there is a 3/8 hex head insert that you would remove to access the ball valve and seats.
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Oatey 38530 Quadtro 1/4 Turn Brass Ball Valves Copper Sweat - Standard Pack

Oatey 38530 Quadtro 1/4 Turn Brass Ball Valves Copper Sweat - Standard Pack

In Stock

Ships within 2 - 3 days from our warehouse.

Model: CHE38530

UPC: 038753385303

38530 Oatey Quadtro 1/4 Turn Brass Ball Valves Copper Sweat - Standard Pack

  • 2" drain opening fits PVC or ABS Schedule 40 DWV pipe
  • Easy to remove knockout, Patent Pending Hammer Valves
  • Snap-on Faceplate Frame accommodates up to 1" drywall
  • Box made of high impact polystyrene
  • Top or Bottom Valve Mount
  • 4 support brackets included for mounting
  • Box Dimensions: 8-3/4"W x 7-1/2"H x 3-5/8"D
  • Faceplate Dimensions: 11-3/4"W x 10-1/8"H

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Author: hkluis (CA)

I have the Oatey Washing Machine Outlet Box with red and blue valve handles. The hot water valve has only very slow drips of water. The cold valve is normal, and I have hot water in the adjacent sink. This occurred shortly after I had workers replace the flooring and baseboard of my laundry room, but I can't see how that would have affected the hot water supply.

The only remedy I can think of is to replace the hot water valve. How do I remove the valve: do I turn the valve head or the nut? The nut seems very tight and I'm afraid of breaking the pipe behind the wall.

Also the valve is not available in hardware stores. Anyone knows where to buy the valve?

Post Reply


Author: packy (MA)

you will have to open the wall just below the box to do what you want.
probably have to cut the copper tubing (if it is copper?) and unscrew the fastening nut from below to lift out the valve.
i don't know of anywhere to purchase these valves as replacements. may have to buy a whole box set up and use those valves.

Post Reply


Author: HytechPlumber (LA)

I would try to back flush the line with cold water pressure "backwards" through the pipes.


Turn off the valve at the waster heater. This will shut down all hot water in the home.

Connect a washer machine hose from your cold water at the washer machine to the hot water at the washer machine. Open up the "hot water only" at the nearby sink you mentioned.

Open up the hot water hosebibb and open up the cold water hosebibb. The cold water should push backwards into the hot water and you should get water flow at the nearby sink. Make sure the washer machine hose does not have clooged up screens in the hose.

This is only a temporary installation. Re-install hoses like standard washer hook up.

If this does not work then there is a blockage somewhere in the pipes that may or may not be in the faucet.

.... X ....... X


...................... Good Luck .....................................

Post Reply


Author: hj (AZ)

Are the "drips" coming out when you open the valve, or into the washing machine when you turn it to "hot"? More than likely you have a plugged screen on a hose or the inlet valve. What you can do depends on the valve itself. Some you have to replace the entire valve unit, and others unscrew inside the box. A picture would help determine your options.

Post Reply


Author: hkluis (CA)

Thank you all for the suggestions.

I tried the back-flow technique but no water came out of the nearby sink. I think the hot water valve is probably stuck closed.

This is only a 10-year old house but is the first one I've lived that uses such a box. Does it mean each time there's a valve problem I'm going to have to tear up the wall? How insane!

Post Reply


Author: hj (AZ)

Take it apart and see if the washer has come loose and is stuck in the valve. There is very little other than that which could obstruct the valve. Those valves do NOT come apart internally, and if the handle turns for a while and then stops, the valve is okay, mechanically, and is NOT stuck closed.



Edited 1 times.

Post Reply


Author: hkluis (CA)

hj, the "drips" comes out of the valve, not the washing machine hose.

The box looks like this:

Post Reply


Author: LemonPlumber (FL)

Does the valve thread into a hex nut before it goes through the plastic box?These cloud be replaced without opening the wall.As their early 1/4 turns are.did you reset this leaking valve?turn it off and on a few times?You have a o-ring seal leak and if it frees from the pinch that causes the leak ,may be ok.A hardware store or our sponsor would have a 1/4turn boiler type drain to replace it with.

Post Reply


Author: hkluis (CA)

LemonPlumber, I've turned the red handle back and forth many times already. The handle isn't stuck, but doesn't feel as tight as the cold water handle. That could be just due to having no water pressure.

It would seem like I should at least be able to turn the hex nut. But I couldn't, and I didn't want to damage the pipe below and flood things.

Post Reply


Author: LemonPlumber (FL)

You need to get a boiler drain.then hold the brass hex with one wrench at the bottom of the box and un-thread the valve above it counter clockwise.Sorry but this might be something to give up on and get your plumber to do simply.just remind him to have a boiler type valve 1/4 turn if you prefer.Believe they may have been using a setting thread compound on this box.which can require a large amount of torque to break loose and a fitting cleaning before the new valve install!



Edited 1 times.

Post Reply


Author: hkluis (CA)

Thank you all!

Post Reply


Author: HytechPlumber (LA)

Cutting a hole in the wall may be the only alternative. I would measure the access panel sizes at the local hardware and cut the hole either 8" X 8" or 12" X 12" or what ever size required to fix the problem and replace with an access panel. (better than floating and painting the wall.) The hole will need to be cut just below the washer box. (approx. 2" below) Be carefull not to damage existing waste n vent pipes or water pipes.


.... X....... X

..................... Good Luck ...............................

Post Reply


Author: hj (AZ)

HUGE picture, but if yours is EXACTLY like that one, then you can buy two boiler drains, NOT hose faucets, and unscrew the valves from those bosses on the bottom, then screw the new valves in.

Post Reply


Author: earthworm (PA)

I was having the identical problem with the Oatey POS " plumbing outlet box".
The valves were leaking big time, the hoses were frozen in place, I had to cut them off.
Then I had to cut the entire unit away from the sheet rock.
The drain pipe was permanently adhered to the box, I do not think it should be..
The RotoZip worked well, fast and a bit messy.
I checked at Grainers in York, their unit was metal and used old fashioned valves...
Oatey seems to be the only show around here - available at the big box stores.
I hate to have to buy poorly designed junk !

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