Metalcloak reviews

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JK Wrangler 2.5" Game-Changer Suspension

Not just any track bar the Patented Durotrak

Solid Chromoly front track bar keeps you... well.. on track

Formed for ultimate Up-Travel & Down-Travel the JK Wrangler Front Track Bar gives unprecedented strength, clearance, and improved ride stability.

JK Front Track Bar

JK Wrangler Durotrak rear track bar - A first in Hi-Clearance!

The Solid Chromoly track bar is uniquely designed to clear on up-travel as well as downtravel. No other track bar is designed with up-travel in mind.

JK Wrangler Hi Clearance Rear Track Bar

Rear Bolt on bracket is a key component

The rear relocation and clearance track bar bracket provides what it takes to allow the track bar to keep your axle centered properly under your Jeep.

JK Wrangler Track Bar Relocation Bracket

Stop The Guess Work. Bump It Up!

Rear Adjustable Bump Stops!

JK Wrangler Replacement Brake Lines, 24.5"

From the Teflon Inner Core, to the Stainless Steel Braid and Poly Safety Coat, the MetalCloak replacement Brake Lines are the best available on the market today.

Longer than typical brake lines of similar lift heights because of our additional clearance and travel. (Learn More About Replacement Brake Lines)


Outboard Shock Mount

MetalCloak Jeep JK Outboard Front Lower Shock Mount Spacer Kit:
  • Engineered to move the lower shock mounts away from the Jeep frame rails increasing clearance for the shock body at the extremes of articulation.
  • All Grade 8 hardware provided.

  • Treated with Gold Zinc Chromate for the ultimate in defense against the elements.
  • Manufactured from laser cut 3/16" steel and CNC bent for superior strength and exact fitment.

Metalcloak Game-Changer Suspension, 2.5" Fox Edition

wayoflife said:

What convinced you to go this direction?

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Which direction? Metalcloak or the 2.5" lift in general? Metalcloak, by many accounts, seems to have the hardiest joints in it's class. I want to be sure that any negative byproducts of the lift are addressed by the kit. I feel that a full set of control arms will help in this persuit. I liked the EVO kit because it seems to address my want for a solid middle ground between road handling and off-road beef.

Mind you, I'm a woodworker, so I know enough to be dangerous. I'm more than willing to take your direction within the confines of my budget. That said, I'm not afraid to spend a bit of money for the optimal gear but there is a limit.


  1. Archive social glassdoor
  2. Kawaii pencil box
  3. Wilson combat springs

Jeep Finally Lifted: Metalcloak 2.5″ Game-Changer Suspension Lift Kit

After 30 months of owning my 2018 Jeep Wrangler JK Unlimited Rubicon, I finally got around the installing a suspension lift. The reason why I waited so long to get around to a lift kit is because the primary reason for a lift is to run larger tires. Since I planned on using the factory BF Goodrich KM 32″ tires until they were close to the final 30-40% of their life, I didn’t need to get a lift kit.

But given the COVID-19 lock down and work from home situation during the past few months and a 10% off sale at Metalcloak, I decided to go ahead and order the lift kit in the form of the Metalcloak 2.5″ Game-Changer Suspension Lift Kit with Rocksport shocks.

I had already settled on the Metalcloak Gamechanger lift many month ago. I did a lot of reading online and was able to determine that the Metalcloak Gamechanger was the best option in terms of a properly designed lift combined with build quality and a decent price (comparatively speaking). It seemed very important to get a suspension lift kit that incorporates adjustable control arms for all eight (8) control arms on the Jeep: front uppers, front lowers, rear uppers, and rear lowers. Also, the Game-Changer includes adjustable front and rear track bars.

Research control arm geometry on the web to understand why adjustable control arms are important. Note that you will discover there are geometry correction brackets and other types of devices to help correct geometry after a suspension lift.

I was on the fence for a bit regarding a 2.5″ vs 3.5″ lift. I decided to go with a 2.5″ because it is good for 35″ tires, which is what I’m targeting. If in the event I decide that I want a 3.5″ lift, then I can simply get the 3.5″ rated coils from Metalcloak and swap out the 2.5″ rated coils.

As far as the shocks, I went with the Metalcloak in-house shock dubbed the Rocksport. I spoke with a Metalcloak representative at their booth while attending the Lucas Oil Off-Road Expot a couple years ago and asked about the Rocksport vs Fox Shocks. I was told that while the Fox shocks are a solid shock and the ones Metalcloak includes with Game-Changer kits is tuned for their coils, the Rocksport actually has more travel and are slightly less expensive

Given that the main benefit that I saw with the Fox shocks is that I could go to most any off-road shop and pick up a shock, but since Metalcloak has the shocks custom-tuned, then that negates the idea of an off-the-shelf shock. Thus, given the wider travel range and the price, I went with the Rocksport shocks for the kit.

Jeep Wrangler JK’s 2012 and after do have a clearance issue with the driveshaft and the exhaust system when lifting the vehicle. The Jeep OEM driveshaft is thick and has a boot around the driveshaft. This is what tends to hit the exhaust when a Jeep JK is lifted.

Most people opt for an exhaust spacer which is an added pipe that gives more clearance for the driveshaft. But I took the optimal road by replacing the OEM driveshaft completely. When I ordered the lift, I went to the Northridge 4×4 web site and ordered the Adams 1310 front driveshaft. This gives me a slimmer profile, yet stronger driveshaft that will properly adjust with the angle of the axle after the lift thanks to the double-cardan assembly.

Now this write-up is not meant to be an install walk-through. There are plenty of guides, videos, and instructions on how to install a lift kit on a Jeep. I just wanted to document some observations I made during the install.

First off, the install of the driveshaft is relatively simple. There is a great video by Adams Driveshaft on Youtube that shows the install of front and rear 1310 Adams Driveshafts. Aside from having to get a 1-1/4 impact socket, I had all the necessary tools to install the driveshaft replacement.

As far as the lift install itself, while the instructions for the Metalcloak Game-Changer are pretty good, it is not 100% comprehensive and doesn’t mention some nuances that will be encountered.

First and foremost, other than the tools that the instructions list of that you will need, I highly recommend having:

  • 1/2″ drive shallow and deep impact sockets for 21mm and 22mm
  • 3/8″ drive shallow and low-profile impact sockets for 21mm and 22mm
  • 1/2″ and/or 3/8″ drive impact wrench with 200+ ft-lb breaking torque
  • Metric ratcheting wrenches up to 22mm
  • Ratchet straps
  • Pry bar
  • Dremel with cutting wheel
  • Keyless chuck (1/4″ hex) or a right-angle drill
  • Spring compressors

The reason why I recommend having a multitude of different profile 21mm and 22mm sockets and metric ratcheting wrenches is for the control arm and track bar bolts. The factory control arm and track bar bolts and nuts are 21mm all around, but you will encounter tight quarters and will need different profile sockets to make things easier, especially when torquing to spec.

Note: 22mm sockets are not really needed unless you go with 9/16 bolts to replace the control arm and track bar bolts. The nuts will be 22mm (or 7/8). More on this later when discussing grade 8 hardware kits.

An impact wrench will save you a lot of muscle strain so definitely get one. The recently released Milwaukee M12 Fuel Right Angle Impact Wrench is a solid choice for a lift install. I used a gun-style impact and a right-angle would have been a lot more useful in certain situations.

You will want the ratchet strap(s) to help contort the axle position in order to line up the holes for the control arm bolts. A pry bar is useful to help nudge some bolts into position.

The Dremel tool with cutting wheel is pretty much going be needed to trim out the hard plastic inside the fender that is blocking the top of front passenger shock tower. You will not be able to get a wrench on that top shock nut without trimming away that plastic.

As far as the keyless chuck, this is what was used to open up the holes on the axle for the Metalcloak JK front lower outboard shock mount and drill the additional hole for the passenger side shock relocation bracket. I don’t know how Metalcloak or other folks drill out the hole without removing the hub and axle shaft. When I looked online and found a Metalcloak video on Youtube showing how to install the front lower outboard shock mount, they had the hub and axle shaft removed.

Since I wasn’t about to do that for this, the keyless chuck was used (I don’t have a right-angle drill) with a ratchet wrench. Slow but it works.

Do yourself a huge favor and get spring compressors, especially if you’re working by yourself. It is easy to remove the factory coil springs since once you droop the axles and tip to each side, the coil springs will pretty much fall out. But getting the taller springs requires a lot more brute force without compressors. I went to Harbor Freight and bought a set for a little over $30. They’re not the greatest, but they work.

I also want to point out that I did order one additional component along with the Metalcloak Game-Changer Suspension Lift Kit and that is the Metalcloak JK Rear Coil Spring Alignment Correction/Retainer kit.

This is basically a metal spacer that fits between the rear coil and the axle to ensure the rear coils are aligned to prevent bowing. It’s not a requirement, but I read some posts on web forums regarding rear spring bowing, so I figured I may as well spend a few extra bucks while I’m installing the lift to ensure things are correctly functioning.

When you install a lift, I highly suggest you extend the brake lines on the front and rear before you start all the other lift component installation. You’re going to need to bleed the brakes, so just get all four brake lines extended and the brakes bled to get it all out of the way.

After the install was done, it was quite satisfying.

Note that I did reuse the stock bolts for the control arms and track bars because I took the Jeep a local off road shop to get the alignment and caster angle set. I figured it would be better to leave the stock hardware before I used the hardware from the Northridge 4×4 Grade 8 Hardware Kit for the JK, which uses Stover nuts.

Anyway, after the off road shop got the Jeep aligned (axles were off and track bars needed significant adjustment along with a couple of the control arms), I swapped out the lower control arm bolts for the front and rear along with the track bar bolts with grade 8 hardware.

Aside from Grade 8 strength, the bolts in the Northridge 4×4 kit are 9/16-18 bolts that are not fully threaded (shouldered). This helps mitigate the control arm bolt holes in the frame and the track bar bolt holes in the axle and frame from getting chewed up by bolt threads. Also, the holes for the control arms and track bars are actually 9/16″, but the OEM bolts used are 14mm, so you get a slightly tighter fit (9/16 = 14.2875mm).

You can get grade 8 bolts and nuts at a good bolt supply shop, but the Northridge 4×4 kit is actually less expensive than buying the bolts, nuts, and washers yourself at a hardware store.

Right now, my Jeep is sitting on the factory 32″ BF Goodrich KM mud terrain tires on the factory 17″ wheels. I still have plenty of life on the factory tires and as I mentioned before, I really wasn’t going to lift the Jeep until I needed new tires. When the tires wear out, I planned on going larger. That still remains the case, but I may go ahead and shell out on new wheels and tires before the end of the year, regardless of the condition of the factory tires.

I am targeting either the Icon Vehicle Dynamics Vector 5 wheels or the Fuel Nitro 5 D667. Both wheels have 4.5″ backspacing which is the widely accepted backspacing for 35″ tires on the Jeep JK. I am most likely going with the Milestar Patagonia MT in LT315/70R17 (equates to 35X12.50R17LT).

Along with 35″ tires, I want to resolve the fenders. Many folks have indcated that 35″ tires will work with stock fenders, which is true. But the issue at hand is that there is less flex available due to lack of fender clearance and additional bump stops will be required. I’m leaning towards MCE flat fenders right now. They are plastic fenders like the factory fenders, but have a flat, high clearance design. I know a lot of people like metal fenders, but I am not liking the idea of the extra weight of metal fenders.

Note that I did considering the cut fender modification on the factory fenders, but I want to retain the width of the fenders. Cut factory fenders gets more clearance, but less tire debris protection.

As far as the comfort post-lift, I can say that it actually feels less stiff than factory. Also, the front end does not nosedive in heavy breaking as I imagine the Metalcloak coil springs are providing more support for the heavy front end on my Jeep (due to the LOD Offroad Destroyer steel front bumper and Warn Zeon 10-S winch).

I haven’t taken it off pavement, yet, since I still want to secure the brake lines and extend the axle differential breather hoses at least a foot to account for the extra travel.

But on pavement, the Jeep doesn’t feel like it gets jarred with every imperfection on a road surface (cracks, potholes, etc).

Anyway, that wraps up my thoughts about the Metalcloak 2.5″ Game-Changer Suspension Lift Kit install. Again, this was not meant to be an install guide or walkthrough. I just wanted to write about my latest upgrade on the Jeep with some thoughts.

I know people opt to pay a shop to install a lift kit. A Jeep suspension lift kit like the Metalcloak Game-Changer is not simple, but it’s not overly difficult either. Thus I highly recommend just spending the several hours of wrench time to DIY the lift install. At the very least, you will understand your suspension more and be able to troubleshoot and fix the Jeep more adeptly in the future.

As far as the lift kit, the Metalcloak Game-Changer definitely shows why it is one of the more popular lift kits out there for Jeep Wranglers. The components allow for the adjust ability necessary to get a proper ride and to maximize the comfort and performance of the suspension. There are plenty of other lift kits out there, but whatever you decide on, I highly recommend getting one with adjustable control arms and adjustable track bars.

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Product Review with Ian Johnson
MC 2.5 GC

Metalcloak 2.5-inch suspension system, Game Changer pictured (Photo courtesy user NavyCorpsman/Jeep Wrangler Forum)


Just as we did with our last suspension comparison, this report will compare and contrast the features of three popular 2.5- to 3-inch suspension kits for the Jeep JK. Again, the intended recipient of this suspension upgrade is a 2009 two-door soft-top JK that sees use on both street and trail, with most of the driving, sadly, coming on highways and surface streets. The Jeep currently wears a set of 33-inch Goodyear Wrangler Duratracs, with 35-inch tires planned as their eventual replacement.

Let’s look at our suspension choices:

The contenders

Teraflex two-door 3-inch lift kit w/4 arms & front track bar (Photo courtesy Teraflex)

Teraflex two-door 3-inch lift kit w/4 arms & front track bar (Photo courtesy Teraflex)

Metalcloak Overland Elite 2.5-inch kit (Photo courtesy Metalcloak)

Metalcloak Overland Elite 2.5-inch kit (Photo courtesy Metalcloak)

Rock Krawler Overland 2.5-inch kit (Photo courtesy Rock Krawler)

Rock Krawler Overland 2.5-inch kit (Photo courtesy Rock Krawler)


Metalcloak Overland Elite 2.5-inch system: The top of the line in Metalcloak’s overland-oriented suspension systems, the Overland Elite reduces cost by reusing the original-equipment control arms, instead utilizing drop brackets for caster correction. (MSRP: $1,269)

Rock Krawler Overland 2.5-inch system: A smooth on-road ride and improved off-road handling are among the top benefits of Rock Krawler’s 2.5-inch overland system. It features progressive coil springs, front sway bar disconnects and longer rear links, and includes Rock Krawler’s “abuse-proof” lifetime warranty. (MSRP: $1,242.10)

Teraflex 3-inch lift with four control arms & front track bar: To create a lift kit comparable to those from Metalcloak and Rock Krawler, Teraflex took their standard-issue three-inch lift kit and added front lower and rear upper adjustable control arms and a front adjustable track bar. (MSRP: $1,759.99)


Components & considerations

Coil springs: We’ve only started, and already our three kits couldn’t be more different. Teraflex uses traditional linear coil springs to achieve 2.5 inches of lift and a factory-like ride, then tops the springs with a half-inch spacer to achieve its advertised three inches. Metalcloak, on the other hand, issues two pair of its “true dual-rate” coils, which combines a traditional linear spring lower with a “flex rate” section that remains compressed at ride height. This design ensures the springs stay seated in their purchases, even at the extremes of articulation. Rock Krawler’s approach is more high-tech. Where Rock Krawler once used springs of different designs in the front and back, the company’s Overland lifts use progressive springs front and rear.

While many coil-spring lifts deliver slightly more lift than advertised to account for the varying weight of Jeep and armor, both Metalcloak and Rock Krawler kits are known to give significantly more than the stated height. (This is less an issue now that Rock Krawler offers specific springs for two- and four-door Jeep JKs.) For example, a survey of nearly a dozen owners of two-door JKs like mine reveals the average lift height from a 2.5-inch Metalcloak kit was about 3 3/8 inches!


Function of Metalcloak’s “True Dual-Rate” coil spring (Animation courtesy Metalcloak)


Both the dual-rate and progressive coils provide an excellent on-road ride and trail manners, superior to a linear spring, but progressive springs can sometimes be difficult to pair with a suitable shock. Any shock not specifically valved for the spring will have a hard time adjusting to the progressive springs’ five spring rates (three load rates and two transitional rates). Advantage: Metalcloak

RK Res ShkShocks: None of the kits in today’s comparison include shocks. Each company offers house-branded or third-party standard or long-travel shocks as an option. For Teraflex, that’s a pair of Fox options headlining the available options, with a twin-tube design serving as an economic back-up. Rock Krawler offers monotube or external-reservoir versions of what I suspect is a rebadged Bilstein unit, similar to American Expedition Vehicles’ approach. For it’s part, Metalcloak touts its high-performance Six-Pack shocks, but also offers a long-travel option from Old Man Emu and a Chinese-sourced house brand. All these options are nice, but savvy consumers will look for the best standalone deal. Advantage: Tie

Bump stops: The Teraflex and Metalcloak units include adequate front and rear bump stops, while Rock Krawler requires the end user to determine his or her desired size and make a separate purchase. (Steel bump stops of varying sizes are a $59 option up front or $54 aft.) The two kits with included bump stops, then, take differing approaches. Teraflex boasts a more plug-and-play approach, adding a rubber bump-stop mount between the jounce tube and the factory Jeep bump stop. Metalcloak, on the other hand, requires drilling the front axle’s spring perch, but includes front and rear stops that are height-adjustable, enabling the user to customize his or her available up-travel. Advantage: Metalcloak

Front track bar: Any lift of 2.5 inches or above shifts the front axle a quarter-inch or more to the driver’s side. At 2.5 inches, many choose to overlook re-centering their axle under the Jeep. At three inches or more, however, the shift is a bit more noticeable, and so all three of these kits include a replacement unit. Metalcloak’s track bar is standard steel stock with an adjustment head on one end and, while Metalcloak and Rock Krawler both use a solid steel bar, Rock Krawler’s features adjustment heads on both ends. Teraflex’s Monster Adjustable Track Bar is unique in that it allows adjustment via an adjusting sleeve, providing the option to adjust its length while mounted to the Jeep. Any of these will get the job done, but I prefer the convenience Teraflex provides.  Advantage: Teraflex

Rear track bar: All of these kits include a replacement track bar bracket to raise the Jeep’s roll center. Rock Krawler’s bracket raises the Jeep’s roll center three inches, according to the company website, while a visual inspection suggests the Teraflex and Metalcloak brackets provide a similar, if not larger, increase. Both the Teraflex and Metalcloak brackets mount on three planes, which some say negates the need to weld them in place. Teraflex and Rock Krawler provide powder-coated bracketry, while Metalcloak’s parts ship with a gilded covering of zinc chromate, which affords considerable protection against rust formation. The Metalcloak Overland Elite is the only kit among these offerings to include both front and rear replacement track bars. Advantage: Metalcloak

RK Sway StrapsSway bar links: All three kits include disconnecting front and solid rear sway bar links. The Rock Krawler units are height-adjustable. That inherent advantage is tempered, though, by Rock Krawler’s choice to use nylon straps as a method to secure the links when disconnected. It seems likely these straps will weather, fade and ultimately break over time. When compared to the other companies’ solid metal parking posts, it’s hard to see Rock Krawler’s straps as anything but a cost-saving maneuver. Advantage: Rock Krawler

Brake lines: Two of the three kits include four replacement brake lines to avoid overstretching. Not surprisingly, those two are the companies perhaps most noted in the industry for incredible flex and lifts that exceed their stated height — Metalcloak and Rock Krawler. Teraflex’s three-inch kit does include longer replacement lines for the front wheels. Were they going on my Jeep, I’d prefer Rock Krawler’s more understated steel-colored lines to Metalcloak’s bright red, but that’s a subjective argument, which others may see differently. Advantage: Two-way tie (Metalcloak, Rock Krawler)

TF Monster ArmsGeometry correction: A lift of any height will change the factory caster and pinion angle and, the higher you go, the worse the resulting vibrations and driveline stress. Returning these figures to near-factory settings can be accomplished with aftermarket control arms or with brackets that adjust the mounting point of the front arms. The Metalcloak Overland Elite lift includes a set of brackets that maintain the factory Jeep control arms, while the Rock Krawler Overland kit includes a pair of solid 2″ diameter, 7/16″-wall (0.438″) steel alloy front lowers with impressive rebuildable joints. Teraflex adds a pair of 1.75″ diameter, 0.281 wall rear upper arms with natural rubber bushings to its competitor’s lineup, to replace four of the Jeep’s eight original arms. Hard-core wheelers will no-doubt find Rock Krawler’s arms beefy and resilient against the rocks, while average users likely will only suffer the costs of added weight without any of the gains in ruggedness. In other words, for most drivers, Rock Krawler’s arms are simply overkill. Many find drop brackets abhorrent, as they do reduce functional ground clearance by an inch or two, though Metalcloak’s choice to include them in its Overland kits allows drivers to enjoy corrected caster and pinion angles now, while saving costs that can be applied to a full set of fixed or adjustable arms down the road. In the end, though, Teraflex strikes an interesting balance by offering a half-set of arms at only a moderate increase in cost. Advantage: Teraflex

Instructions: How many shade-tree Jeep mechanics have been frustrated — or, worse, had their planned modifications delayed by — poorly written or incorrect instructions? Moreover, instructions must be written not only for expert installers, but for the first-timer, who’s figuring it out as he goes in his driveway. The choice by Metalcloak and Rock Krawler to provide a single set of instructions for all their suspension systems, in my view, is simply lazy and sloppy. More than one or two statements to the effect of “if your kit includes X, then do Y” can easily confound a novice Jeeper. In today’s world of computers and do-it-yourself desktop publishing, there’s simply no excuse for this approach.

Teraflex, on the other hand, includes thorough instructions (though I would prefer color photography or at least higher-quality black-and-white photos) specific to the product at hand. Additionally, the company’s online video collection, surely intended more as a marketing tool than a customer resource, is in fact a tremendous help when installing their products. Advantage: Teraflex

Customer service: The “Teraflex Advantage” wins again. While all three of these companies produce great products and offer satisfactory support after the sale, I’ve found Teraflex’s support staff easily accessible and eager to help. Advantage: Teraflex

Price: In the final MSRP category, the Teraflex entry in today’s roundup is burdened by the fact it contains more components than the Rock Krawler or Metalcloak kits. More components means a higher price and, at a penny shy of $1,760, the Utah company’s suspension system is the costliest of today’s bunch. In a true, apples-to-apples, part-for-part comparison, though, the Teraflex kit comes in more on par with its competitors. In an unusual twist, the Rock Krawler kit edges out Metalcloak in the price department by a scant $27. I’ve always suspected Rock Krawler kits were a little overpriced for their contents, so this comes as a very welcome surprise. Advantage: Rock Krawler


Each of these companies caters to a unique audience, each with its own specific needs. The important thing to remember about selecting parts for your Jeep is that within a large group of high-quality parts manufacturers, you really can’t go wrong. I wouldn’t hesitate for a moment to do business with Rock Krawler, Metalcloak or Teraflex. Each offers a variety of products suited to a number of driving styles and environments. Hopefully, comparing these products side by side is helpful in making a decision.

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Thread: MetalCloak 3.5" Game Changer

  • 03-15-2012, 08:46 PM#1

    913 is offline
    New JK Freak

    MetalCloak 3.5" Game Changer

    We installed this kit on our JKU a couple weeks ago. The install went very well, MetalCloak includes everything you need for the install, all hardware and stuff, with the exception of brake fluid!

    Overall, with putting a bunch of road miles on it and some trails, we are VERY pleased with the overall performance of this system. It rides great on road, I take my kids to school in it almost every day and they love it too. It articulates very well on the trails, and also runs great at speed on the fire roads, eating up the bumps and ruts that would normally make it a bone-jarring ride.

    The kit did give us more than 3.5" of lift, so I am ordering a new front driveshaft and have since sold off the 35's and am running some temporary 37's until I decide which tires we will be running in the longer term. The JK was also on the lighter side, with aluminum rockers, front bumper and just a rear bumper with no swingout, so if you add all steel armor to the equation it will most likely sit lower than where ours did.

    Enough blabbing, here are some pics!

    Some pics after we finished the install, riding on 35" Falken's and not aired down at all.

    And a couple mall crawling pics with the new wheels and 37's:

  • 03-15-2012, 08:48 PM#2

    Southern Discomfort is offline
    Southern Discomfort's Avatar

    VERY NICE! MetalCloak is SICK!

    American by Birth, Southern by the Grace of God!!!
    2010 Flame Red Rubi

  • 03-15-2012, 08:51 PM#3

    karls10jk is offline
    Freak Scholar karls10jk's Avatar

    Ahhh, I see you have the 6pak shocks too! How many miles have you put on the kit?

    2010 Mango Tango 2dr on 33" STT's plus bumpers- no more, no less.

  • 03-15-2012, 08:52 PM#4

    Hook-em is offline
    Supporting Freak Hook-em's Avatar

    Awesome job. That's some serious flex on a simple coil lift.

  • 03-15-2012, 08:58 PM#5

    913 is offline
    New JK Freak
    QuoteOriginally Posted by karls10jkView Post

    Ahhh, I see you have the 6pak shocks too! How many miles have you put on the kit?

    I'd have to go back through my mileage log, but at least a thousand or more? I do mostly driving around town, but did do one trip to Choccolocco Mountain, AL which is over 2 hours each way.

  • 03-15-2012, 09:13 PM#6

    WhiskyPirate is offline
    Super JK Freak WhiskyPirate's Avatar

    Was just eyeing up their kits a few nights ago. Awesome to see flex like that with a mid arm lift. Looks awesome!

    Trying to build smarter, not just larger...

    “Too much of anything is bad, but too much of good whisk(e)y is barely enough.”
    ~ Mark Twain

  • 03-16-2012, 01:10 PM#7

    Jeepineer is offline
    New JK Freak

    Great Job on the install!! Is there anything we could have done better to make your install easier? (except brake fluid)

    This is Doug from MetalCloak

  • 03-16-2012, 04:51 PM#8

    Tcdawg is offline
    Freak In Nature Tcdawg's Avatar
    QuoteOriginally Posted by 913View Post

    I'd have to go back through my mileage log, but at least a thousand or more? I do mostly driving around town, but did do one trip to Choccolocco Mountain, AL which is over 2 hours each way.

    Where are the Chocco pic???

    Crawling For Reid March 17, 2018 Adventure OffRoad Park

  • 05-06-2012, 05:31 PM#9

    JKCloak is offline
    Senior JK Freak JKCloak's Avatar

    This lift looks sick, not many mid arm lifts can match that flex!!!

  • 05-06-2012, 08:01 PM#10

    karls10jk is offline
    Freak Scholar karls10jk's Avatar

    2010 Mango Tango 2dr on 33" STT's plus bumpers- no more, no less.

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